Friday, November 28, 2008
His fresh and irreverent approach to fashion photography launched his career photographing most of the key cultural figures from the worlds of pop music, literature and theatre with a simple and dramatic style.
Thursday, November 27, 2008
Another one of my favorite things to do on Thanksgiving is to cook! This year we are spending it with family so I don't have to dress the turkey. I'm bringing a couple of side dishes and a dessert.
3 1/2 cups fresh cranberries
1 cup pure pomegranate juice
3/4 cup sugar
1/4 cup fresh meyer lemon juice
2 Tablespoons grated meyer lemon peel
1 Tablespoon fresh chopped parsley
Stir everything but the parsley in a large saucepan until sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to medium, simmer until berries begin to burst, stirring often about 10 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl. Stir in parsley. Cover and chill until cold.
Wishing you all a safe wonderful gastronomic Thanksgiving!
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
Flight attendants became marketing icons. Skirts got shorter, and attendants wore go-go boots, hot pants, fake eyelashes and bouffant hairstyles. When airlines flew similar aircraft on similar routes, at comparable prices, the menu and the flight attendant's uniform became a means of differentiation.
In the 1960's, Mary Wells, who worked for advertising company Wells, Rich, and Green had a vision for helping to brand Braniff Airlines. She worked under the assumption that the airlines were all perceived to be the same. She set out to break that mold and launched a campaign for Braniff called "The End of the Plain Plane." The campaign launched a new look for all things Braniff; the planes, the airport lounges, the food, and the 'hostess' uniforms.
The uniforms were critical for helping to establish the breakaway Braniff image. The infamous Emilio Pucci was hired to create a look that brought glamour back to air travel. Bright, bold colors and designs became the mark of friendly service and exciting travel for Braniff.
Pucci's first uniform for the company referenced his own jet-setting, cafe-society clientele and the glamorous, exclusive nature of air travel at the time with a luxurious sportswear wardrobe fashioned out of eye-poppingly bright coral red, hyacinth blue, melon, and grass-green silks and wools. The reversible swing coat even appears to have had hand-stitched lapels. Hostesses could make four outfit changes in a single flight!
In the late 1960's and early 1970's, the costume skewed more sexy than classy with miniskirts and matching tights in far-out psychedelic prints. Incredibly, in the late 1960's, the uniform included full-length fur coats for stewardesses on the Greenland and Iceland routes. The plastic bubble helmet, to protect hairdos on windy tarmacs, was an integral part of the Pucci-designed uniforms but was phased out after 1965 for being impractical.
Other prominent fashion houses that designed for the airlines in the 1960's and 1970's include: Dior for SAS, Balenciaga for Air France, Pierre Cardin for Pakistani Airlines, Pierre Balmain for Singapore Airlines, Hanae Mori for Japan Airlines, Mary Quant for Courtline Aviation, Bill Blass for American Airlines and Valentino and Ralph Lauren for TWA.
In more recent times (since 2003), several airlines have hired fashion designers to help them introduce their image through the airline uniform. Korean Air worked with Italian designer GianFranco Ferre, Kate Spade designed for Song, Christian Lacroix for Air France and Richard Tyler for Delta.
Now sit back, relax, and fasten your seat belts and enjoy a Branniff clip.
Tuesday, November 25, 2008
2) Rudi Gernreich
4) An Uncle Sam Suit
5) Bonnie & Clyde
6) Cleopatra started women wearing 'the Cleopatra look" in everything from jewlery to hairdos.
7) Jackie Kennedy
8) Nehru and Mao
9) Love Beads
10) C, Priscilla of Boston
Monday, November 24, 2008
High Fashion and Low, take this 1960's Fashion Quiz. One, two three four - tell the people what we wore.
1) Who was credited with starting the miniskirt craze?
2) What designer made it big with topless bathing suits?
3) What fun name was given to the totally topless swimsuit for women?
4) What kind of outfit did Allen Ginsberg wear in a popular movie poster?
5) Which movie did most to encourage the gangster look - striped double breasted suits, superwide neckties, brown and white shoes?
6) What did an Elizabeth Taylor movie do for the fashion world in 1962?
7) Who sent millners rushing to produce enough pillbox hats to meet the demand?
8) Name two world leaders who had briefly popular jacket styles named for them?
9) When the Indian look came in among the young, beads were worn around the neck. What were they called?
10) Who designed Luci Johnson's bridal gown? (pictured above)
A. Coco Chanel
B. Mary Quant
C. Priscilla of Boston
D. Rheba of Highland Park
E. Vivian Davis Polk
Good luck, answers provided tomorrow.
Friday, November 21, 2008
In 1966, Scott Paper Company invented the paper dress, intended as a marketing and publicity tool. For one dollar, women could buy the dress and also receive coupons for Scott paper products. It originally came in two designs, a black and white Op Art motif and a red bandanna pattern. Scott advertisers described the paper dress as "created to make you the conversation piece at parties. Smashingly different at dances or perfectly packaged at picnics. Wear it anytime...anywhere. Won't last forever...who cares? Wear it for kicks -- then give it the air." When orders for half a million dresses poured in, the promotion overwhelmed the Scott Company. Six months after it began, company executives abruptly ended the advertising campaign stating they "didn't want to turn into dress manufacturers."
When Scott stepped out of the paper garment industry, others quickly filled the void. By 1967, Mars Manufacturing Company of Asheville was the nation's leading producer of paper dresses, selling 80,000 to 100,000 a week. From its basic A-line shift, the company expanded its line to include bell-bottom jump suits, evening gowns, aprons, men's vests, children's dresses and even swimming trunks.
What began as a mail order business turned into a huge fad. Paper dresses were sold conveniently in drug and grocery stores as well as department stores and boutiques. Consumers often could buy matching paper party decorations right along with the disposable clothes. The disposability of the garments and their expedient purchase implied modernity and leisure. Paper dresses were an attractive alternative since you could shorten them with a pair of scissors and mend them with scotch tape, or throw them away when they got soiled.
Paper dresses were a little more than just paper; they were usually composed of 93% cellulose and 7% nylon (like dry baby wipes), or sometimes made of "Dura-Weve," which was cellulose reinforced with rayon. Although they were indeed more fragile than cloth, they were not likely to rip at the slightest move. Many paper clothes also featured closures of Velcro, making them seem even more "space-age."
One of the most recognizable paper dresses of 1967 was 'The Souper Dress' put out by Campbells in 1967. You could get this dress by sending in labels and a small amount of cash. The inspiration of this dress came from Andy Warhol, but he did not design this dress or have any involvement in its creation.
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Gernreich’s clothes embody the aspirations and contradictions of his day, especially regarding the role of women as increasingly independent individuals. His knitted fabrics and daringly skimpy cuts emphasized the uniqueness of the individual human body and its movements. Many are reminiscent of a dancer’s practice clothes, not surprising for a designer who worked as a professional dancer and designed his first costumes for dance.
Like many others in the 1960s, Gernreich exploited brilliant new colors and psychedelic patterns sometimes inspired by Op Art and other 1960s trends. Perhaps best known for his swimwear design of the Monokini, the first topless swimsuit, and later the Thong, Gernreich's career was full of 'firsts'.
Here from The Rudi Gernreich Book by Peggy Moffit & William Claxton are a few of Gernreich's firsts.
- Took inner construction out of bathing suits.
- Designed first knitted tube dresses.
- Was the first to use cutouts in clothes.
- First to use vinyl & plastic in clothes.
- Introduced androgyny - men's suits & hats, etc. on women.
- Designed the first see-through clothes.
- Designed the first soft transparent bra - the "no bra" bra.
- Invented body clothes based on leotards & tights.
- Used hardware-zippers, dog leash clasps etc. as decoration.
- Did the first designer jeans.
- Designed the first thong bathing suit.
- First to design men's underwear for women.
Rudi Gernreich Fashions in Basic Black by William Claxton.
Rudi Gernreich launched the No Bra Bra in 1964 at a time when the more structured padded, wired uplift bra was the norm. Gernreich conceived a soft, minimal sheer bra that went along with the often unstructured styles of the time, as well as with the many sheer fabrics and plunging necklines of the sexual revolution in the 1960's. He wanted the woman to be 'free' in clothing and garments in which breasts assumed their natural shape, rather than being molded into an aesthetic ideal. Gernreich produced pared down body-clothes in the 1960's aimed at what seemed to be the new woman of the era, freed of all constraints.
At Glamoursurf, we've recently acquired and listed the infamous 'No Bra' Bra in black from Rudi Gernreich along with some other vintage bras including a circle stitch 50's torpedo bra and some strapless bow bra's. Visit Glamoursurf today for your vintage lingerie!
Also recently acquired at Glamoursurf.com is a mid 50's Rudi Gernreich for Westwood Coral Pink one piece swimsuit. Shown here and on the cover of June 8, 1956 Colliers magazine.
Wednesday, November 19, 2008
Pierre Cardin took a prominent role in 1960's fashion scene, specifically with his 'Space Age' look.
As space became popular in 1960's television programs like 'Star Trek', 'Barbarella' and '2001: A Space Odyssey' Cardin explored the idea of dressing for the future. In the late 1960's his stark, short tunics, and his use of vinyl, helmets, and goggles launched the Space Age look.
Cardin lives and works in Paris, constantly designing and innovating his many lines of clothing, footwear, perfume and hats. His designs and his commercial success have made him one of the living legends among French fashion designers.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
In 1964 Andre Courreges launched the ‘space-age’ look. His success was followed by Paco Rabanne’s 1966 interpretation of the futuristic theme. Rabanne created clothing using plastic, metal and even chain mail. This extreme look caught on commercially in the form of chain link belts, heavy metal necklaces and disk like earrings. Pierre Cardin also created his version of the space age look with stylised visored helmet hats and shift dresses.
Sit back and enjoy this short video featuring space age influences in fashions of the 1960's.
Monday, November 17, 2008
Couture Allure talks about dressing well on a budget in the 1950's.
Debutante Clothing finds a chic '50s hat she can actually wear.
Freudian Slips Vintage showcases recent vintage finds.
Glamoursplash writes about Twiggy - the 1960's Supermodel and Icon.
iKonic Vintage explores Target's upcoming Designer Collaborations.
Do you blog about vintage too? Consider joining the Vintage Roadshow!
Friday, November 14, 2008
Op Art was a term coined in 1964. Optically distorted geometric patterns in black and white produced a whole range of movements on a surface. When applied to fabric it created a new bold look in fashion and accessories. Op Arts primary goal was to fool the eye. Bridget Riley’s dazzling black-and-white paintings triggered an ‘op art’ fashion craze in the 1960's. Victor Vasarely was also an influence. Op's greatest moment was the "The Responsive Eye" exhibition at the Museum of Modern Art in 1965.
Pop Art was an art movement and style that had its origins in England in the 1950's and made its way to the United States during the 1960's. Pop artists have focused attention upon familiar images of the popular culture such as billboards, comic strips, magazine advertisements, and supermarket products.
The original Pop art fashion movement was both political, in that it challenged the domination of couture and bourgeois status dressing, and an artistic reaction to abstract art and design, with the satirical and ironic use of advertising and of representational everyday objects.
Early Pop Art in Britain was a matter of ideas fueled by American popular culture viewed from afar, while the America artists were inspired by the experiences of living within that culture. Pop Art therefore coincided with the youth and pop music phenomenon of the 1960's, and became very much a part of the image of fashionable, 'swinging' London.
Some freelance designers took their inspiration from sources of contemporary art and graphics like Andy Warhol's Pop Art images.Warhol influenced fashion, and Yves Saint Laurent certainly went down the pop art road with his Mondrian dress and the black and white block sheaths he introduced in the early 1960s.Brightly coloured large-scale geometric repeats were favourites for both dress and furnishing fabrics.
Thursday, November 13, 2008
Barbara Hulanicki was born in Warsaw. Her mother brought her and her sisters to Britain after their father was murdered by terrorists in Palestine. She studied at Art College and became a freelance fashion artist for a variety of magazines.
Barbara Hulanicki started 'Biba' as a mail-order operation in 1964 with her husband Stephen Fitzsimon "Fitz'. They felt that the price of designer goods was far too high for most people and adopted and promoted the 'use for a while, throw away and buy more' marketing philosophy.
Barbara designed her own fabrics, generally using combinations of 'art deco' and 'art nouveau'. The business really took off when the Daily Mirror featured one of their gingham dresses and orders started to pour in.
Hulanicki's ultra modern, affordable and attractive styles made her a cult figure in the fashion business leading, in 1963, to her opening the BIBA boutique in Abingdon Road. Dark wood screens, low lighting and pop music gave the place the air of a discotheque and potential customers were actively encouraged to go inside and try whatever they liked.
The fashion of Biba ranged from mini skirts and dresses to trouser suits, T-shirts, boots and a children’s department at the back of the shop. Barbara also devised new lines in cosmetics which were perfect for that elegantly wasted look; brown lipstick, which was soon followed by shades of blue, green, purple and black with matching eyeshadows and contour powders. Biba also had coloured wigs and boots with ridiculously high heels, all creating styles which were copied throughout the world.
Twiggy in a black sequin tube dress posing at Biba.
The largest store was opened in Kensington High Street in 1969, which had an all-black 1930s style décor. Selling everything with the famous black and gold logo on it; Biba clothes, Biba make-up, Biba toys, etc. It survived until 1973 when it moved to the old Derry & Toms store in Kensington, finally closing it's doors in the mid-seventies. Biba relaunched under new ownership in 2006.